Outdoor lighting on a sales lot is probably one of the most important aspects of a successful dealership. Beautiful and unobtrusive by day, brilliant by night! Because of our decades of expirence designing lighting for dealerships Bieber Lighting set standard for dealership lighting. There isn't a major city in the US that doesn't have Bieber Lighting Fixtures. We have installed lighting systems above auto centers literally in every state in the country, including Pueto Rico and Guam! We have also installed similar sales lot lighting in a few foreign countries.
Due to the rapid increase in energy cost. The demise of the metal halide (HID) lamp in lieu of other energy saving lighting. What choices are there? Induction or LED. Induction is basically a flourescent light bulb on steroids. We highly recommend against induction due to it's low Color Rendering Index (CRI¹). Induction bleaches out color and make every cars paint dull.
This leaves LEDs as the only solution
For nearly a decade LEDs couldn't touch a HID for lighting up a dealerships inventory. LEDs have a low CRI and that's not all. LED fixtures using the old SMD³ style LED ships are not powerful enough to get the light from atop a pole down to the ground. They tried clustering hundreds of LEDs into a circuit board. That caused heat issues and individual LEDs would fail and that would increase the power to the remaining LEDs leading to premature failure of the fixture. Then in 2012 an SMD module came out reducing the amount of power to a set of LEDs, reducing the failure rate. They stack these modules next to each other, adding more if more light is needed. This left two unresolved issues. CRI and getting the light on the cars. When you look up at the light fixture you would say "Wow that's bright!" and yet the dealership is dark. Why is that? The answer is Glare. An HID is one small, super bright 7,000℉ light source. The cluster of 200 plus LEDs are spread out over a 2 sq ft area. The human brain interprets the glare as "bright". Those module LED fixtures have ten year old SMD technology, low 70+ CRI and the light is not where you want it. On your merchandise! After four years of research and waiting for technology to catch up with us.
We solved all three issues.
We reinvented the LED fixture from the ground up. We used Nano technology and advanced LEDs by Bridgelux™ and a few trade secrets to push LED light equal to a 1,500 watt HID to the ground with a 600 watt LED fixture. Using only (6) LEDs instead of the 400 needed to match 1.500 watt HID levels. The color rendering index is above >93 CRI. Our 3" inch thick, optical grade glass lens push light all the way to the ground. This light is named after it's predecessor.
The Auto-Brite is set as a Type IV dight distribution. Each of the six lens are direction adjustable. This feature allows the installer to change the direction of any or all the lenses to put the light exactly the dealer wants it to be. Like a dark area by a shop door.
What is the best LED light for a auto dealership?
- 5000-5500 kelvin (not 6000k)
- 90+ CRI
- minimum 70lx on the car
Editors final note:
Don't be fooled by lumens. You have been told that the fixture with the most lumens is the better choice. This may be true of a light bulb for your house. Not true for light that has to travel long distances. "Oh, like a light pole?" That measurement is foot candles⁴ (fc) for HID and lux (lx) for LEDs. Beware of a company that won't tell you their lux readings. If they have a UL with a DLC certificate. They have lux data but to embarrassed to publish them. Compare lux readings
- ¹100 CRI is the summer solstice 12 noon at the equator.
- High Intensity discharge
- Surface Mount Diode
- 1 foot candle = 10.76 lux